"For a catch-up dinner with a best friend visiting from out of town, we headed to the n ew Spanish restaurant from the Ernesto's team. It's a cute little bistro a few steps below sidewalk level that's absolutely bustling on a Thursday evening. We were seated in a corner nook in the convivial, luxe yet comfy back dining room while chef Ryan Bartlow - identifiable by his chef hat - weaves through the Madrid-styled tavern, checking on guests and dishes."
"Yes, the ajo blanco ($25) was as delightful as described - refreshing with those spheres of melons. But we were particularly taken with the arroz del dia ($55), a square pan full of squab slices, rice cooked in squab, and mushrooms. Visually, it was a work of art, and flavor-wise, it was an umami-packed dish with comforting textures. Even the table next to us (the two had complimented our outfits) asked what we ordered."
A new Spanish restaurant in the West Village occupies a cozy, below-sidewalk bistro with a convivial, luxe yet comfy back dining room. Chef Ryan Bartlow circulates through the Madrid-styled tavern. Ajo blanco ($25) arrives refreshing with melon spheres. Arroz del dia ($55) comes in a square pan with squab slices, rice cooked in squab, and mushrooms, offering strong umami and comforting textures. Cafe Commerce reopened in a Euro-chic space near the Frick Collection, serving a sizable sourdough grilled cheese oozing with cheddar and Gruyere alongside a non-creamy tomato soup. A plated chicken salad special features careful presentation and a red booth overlooks an oil-and-gold-leaf mural along the bar.
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