"Fabric: Pure wool (no matter the weave) is the standard, but blending in other fabrics can give you different qualities. Todd Snyder (among other brands I didn't list) uses silk to create sheen and softness. Military surplus coats often blend in synthetics, which are meant to give weather resistance on a battlefield or parade route. But at the end of the day, I say go for as much wool as possible."
"With overcoats, you can break this into two camps: natural and structured. Natural includes the raglan shoulders or soft sewn shoulders, and it creates a more versatile coat. Structured shoulderssee Mark Powell and Edward Sexton for the most structured examplesgive you the shape of classic tailoring, regal and confident. Most guys these days, I imagine, want a softer shoulder that's easier to wear."
Aim for a wool coat that will last at least a decade, whether purchased new or second-hand. Prioritize as much pure wool as possible, while recognizing blends can add sheen, softness (silk), or weather resistance (synthetics in military surplus). Evaluate shoulder construction: natural (raglan or soft-sewn) offers versatility and ease of wear; structured shoulders create the classic tailored, regal silhouette and suit formal coats. Choose shoulder structure based on intended formality and personal comfort. Select coat shape—double- or single-breasted, lapels or turnover collar, belted or not—according to functional needs like wind protection and individual preference.
Read at www.esquire.com
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