A Perverted Haider Ackermann Show, of Distinct Tom Ford Kinks

"You don't often hear a designer use the word "perverted" to describe their clothes for a fashion house, particularly when they're in the somewhat delicate position of being an incoming talent to an established name. Then again, few designers have the brazen confidence of Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford - nor such an intense, symbiotic relationship with a brand. It's a love affair with a distinctly carnal edge, a borderline obsession."

"For Autumn/Winter 2026, it played out in blinding, near-clinical white. Maybe this time, his Ford men and women were so deep in love - or lust, or whatever you want to call it - that they were eyeing each other up across the operating theatre, their ardour so fervid they actually wanted to become each other. Under the knife, to transform into what you most desire."

"Ford, actually, not so much - his clothes were excellent, but his image-making capabilities were so strong he was never hurrahed, really, for the power of his tailoring, his choice of materials, nor his colour sense. He loved black, worshipped it really, but the rich, saturated Guy Bourdin crimson and evergreen, armagnac and pale blues that Ackermann chose to punctuate this otherwise Cruella de Vil-monochromatic show threw attention onto Ford's overlooked excellence in that arena."

Haider Ackermann presents Tom Ford's Autumn/Winter 2026 collection with an intense focus on obsession and carnal desire, featuring models that stalk the runway with hungry gazes. The collection plays out in blinding white with surgical precision, suggesting a fantasy where lovers desire to transform into each other through transformation. Ackermann's surgical cutting approach complements Ford's overlooked excellence in tailoring, material selection, and color sense. Rich jewel tones—crimson, evergreen, armagnac, and pale blues—punctuate the otherwise monochromatic palette, drawing attention to Ford's sophisticated craftsmanship. The collection features slender, pin-neat silhouettes: pencil skirts for women and high-waisted trousers with abbreviated jackets for men, emphasizing Ford's precision and design mastery.

Read at AnOther