"MFW SS26 season was a succession of handovers. Four great houses-Versace, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Jil Sander-each unveiled new creative leads, shifting the landscape of the Italian fashion capital. Some dove into archives, others rewrote the format altogether, while a few chose subtle recalibration over theatrics. The golden thread was a sense of fashion in transition, with legacy weighed against reinvention, and codes bent, broken, or brought back."
"Versace Donatella cedes the mantle to Dario Vitale, who for his debut mined the archives, reviving codes unseen since the '80s and '90s-a gesture foreshadowed by the house's recent Versace Embodied project. Backless and sideless men's tees and bejeweled torero bras, accessorized with art-deco buckles and rock necklaces, stood out in a sexy collection at once daring and referential. Detractors on social media dismissed it as "not Donatella's Versace." They're right. It's Dario's-staking his claim while honoring Gianni's legacy."
"Demna ditched the runway for his inaugural Gucci collection, staging La Famiglia as a cinematic premiere titled The Tiger. In the short film directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, house codes turned into characters: Demi Moore stars as 'Barbara Gucci,' empress of the house, Alex Consani prowls in tiger-print faux fur as 'La Bomba' and Mariacarla Boscono storms in a scarlet '60s coat as the fuming 'Incazzata.'"
SS26 in Milan presented four major creative debuts that signaled a shifting fashion landscape and tensions between legacy and reinvention. Versace passed leadership from Donatella to Dario Vitale, whose debut revived '80s and '90s codes with backless and sideless men's tees, bejeweled torero bras, art-deco buckles, and rock necklaces, staking a personal claim while honoring Gianni. Demna reimagined Gucci as a cinematic premiere titled The Tiger, using a short film directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn to anthropomorphize house codes. Louise Trotter began at Bottega Veneta with a triumphant leather-focused collection and a new logo. Fashion felt both reverent and rebellious.
Read at Documentjournal
Unable to calculate read time
Collection
[
|
...
]