"Perhaps it's a return to elegance - a word first used by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons at their Prada show, that seems to have only gained relevance and resonance as the season progressed, a season of histories made and echoes, a season of rich fabrics, complex shapes - and opera gloves, lots of those. Plus, there is of course a slew of couture houses being revamped and revived, with much ado about their backgrounds. It's inevitably in the air."
"Chloé however, is the rare Parisian fashion house without a couture heritage - it was established as "luxury prêt-à-porter" set up in a maid's room above the founder Gaby Aghion's Parisian apartment, about as far away from a couture salon as you could be. But, with those cultural headwinds, Chemena Kamali decided to contradict Chloé, just a little, and fill her collection with riffs on and references to the sphere of couture -"
Couture motifs circulated strongly in Spring/Summer 2026, signaling a renewed appetite for elegance, rich fabrics, complex shapes and opera gloves. Chloé lacks a couture heritage, having been founded as luxury prêt-à-porter in a maid's room above Gaby Aghion's Paris apartment. Chemena Kamali introduced couture references into the collection as a deliberate paradox, retaining Chloé's relaxed, witty handwriting. She reimagined precious brocades as scribbly prints on cotton and draped them to read like taffeta, combining disparate reference points with playful restraint. Kamali also mined Chloé's late 1970s–early 1980s heyday under Karl Lagerfeld, when the house achieved couture levels of finish and cut.
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