Fashion world gets first glimpse of Armani's post-Giorgio direction

"What exactly Giorgio Armani looks like without its eponymous founder at the helm has been the burning question in the fashion industry since the designer's death in September. In Milan on Monday afternoon, it got its answer as the designer's collaborator and right-hand man of four decades, Leo Dell'Orco, made his debut at the Italian fashion house where he will oversee menswear for the foreseeable future. It was the first Armani collection in which the late designer had no involvement."

"If Armani under Armani was known for its relaxed, deconstructed suiting and fluid folds in silk, velvet and cashmere, all in his signature shade of greige, Dell'Orco kept all but the colour palette, shifting focus away from the famous portmanteau towards jewel-like tones. Here, the everyday Armani uniform of relaxed velvet coordinates, brushed cashmere shackets and velvet polo shirts came in amethyst, sapphire and lapis blue hues"

"Elsewhere, a 1980s sensibility came to the fore, with leather bomber and aviator-inspired jackets, jacquard knitwear and rakish suiting that was one-part Withnail, one part member of A-ha. The latter is a savvy move in many ways, tapping into the increased appetite for vintage Armani. In the days after Giorgio's death, eBay reported a 192% spike in searches for the brand, while searches on Vinted were three times higher than normal."

Leo Dell'Orco, Giorgio Armani's long-time collaborator, debuted as head of Armani menswear with the first collection created without the late designer's involvement. The collection preserved the house's relaxed, deconstructed suiting and fluid fabrics while replacing the signature greige with jewel-like amethyst, sapphire and lapis tones. Key pieces included relaxed velvet coordinates, brushed cashmere shackets, velvet polo shirts, leather bomber and aviator-inspired jackets, jacquard knitwear and rakish suiting with an 1980s sensibility. The palette and vintage lean tapped surging interest in vintage Armani after Giorgio's death, and the menswear press response was generally positive.

Read at www.theguardian.com