"There was an outsider's embrace of French fashion standards in this show, like an open-top omnibus tour at breakneck, gendarme-enraging speed of tailored hooded boleros with sweet bows perched on the noggin like something by Marc Bohan or a young Hubert de Givenchy. There were zip-scarred bodycon dresses that I refuse to accept as anything other than homage to Azzedine Alaïa's seminal 1986 originals."
"Triumph, religion, French architecture? It all came together there in an Autumn/Winter fashion show that was part Pierre Cardin couture, part Crazy Horse strip show and a big ol' chunk of Rudi Gernreich, whose aesthetic basically hovered someplace between the two."
"It's a neat, post-modern take on the idea of appropriation, from the regular riff to outright theft. The crepe-flat wedding gown - spoiler opener rather than traditional couture closer - felt Cardin; the beefy black knickers haltered with a shoestring are exactly what shows up if you Google image search 'Monokini Gernreich'."
Vaquera designers Bryn Taubensee and Patric DiCaprio presented their latest collection in a church near the Arc de Triomphe, creating a show that merged multiple fashion influences. The collection drew inspiration from Pierre Cardin couture, Crazy Horse cabaret aesthetics, and Rudi Gernreich's pioneering designs. The designers, American newcomers to Paris, demonstrated an outsider's perspective on French fashion standards through tailored hooded boleros, zip-detailed bodycon dresses referencing Azzedine Alaïa, and silhouettes inspired by Balenciaga. The show featured a crepe wedding gown opening, geometric leatherette shapes evoking William Klein's fashion satire, and references to monokini designs. The collection represented a postmodern approach to fashion appropriation, ranging from subtle references to direct homages of iconic designers.
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