"His educated, respectful, and clearly loving perspective doesn't just nod to Oaxaca; it delivers culture and flavors to Chicago with the fanfare they deserve. For lunch, try the green enchiladas, available with either cheese, chorizo, or steak. Chef makes the tangy, pleasantly spicy sauce with his mother's recipe. An alternative to enchiladas, and not so easily found in Chicago are the enfrijoladas, a breakfast staple made with tortillas drenched in a silky bean sauce, served with plantains."
"Go for the chicken mole for dinner. The sauce blends recipes from the Oaxacan regions chef Muñoz's grandmothers came from (he couldn't choose just one). The result: a sweet, mildly spicy sauce similar to a Poblano-style mole, only lighter. Mexican food is built on layers of fusion. Istmo nods to Lebanese cuisine in a few dishes, such as the standout barbecue dolma made with grape leaves and served with a very light tomato sauce. The technique reminded Muñoz of cooking barbacoa in banana leaves."
Istmo brings the cuisine of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec to Chicago with skilled, heartfelt execution. Lunch offerings include green enchiladas made with a tangy, pleasantly spicy family sauce and enfrijoladas served with plantains. Dinner highlights the chicken mole, a blend of grandmothers' Oaxacan recipes that yields a sweet, mildly spicy, lighter Poblano-style sauce. The menu reflects Mexico's layered fusion, featuring Lebanese-influenced dishes like a barbecue dolma in grape leaves and a citrus-marinated dorado with chipotle. Desserts include a nicuatole resembling panna cotta, and drinks are refined, clarified, and artfully presented. The space suits solo diners and small celebrations.
Read at Eater Chicago
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