Our Food Critic's Favorite Fall Comfort Dishes
Briefly

Our Food Critic's Favorite Fall Comfort Dishes
Lucky Danger began as a pandemic pop-up and is now a sleek Penn Quarter dining room and mahjong parlor serving tweaked Chinese/American classics. Its crab lo mein is tossed with buttered Maryland blue crab and finished with a sauce born when creamy, caramelized whey accidentally spilled into dashi, balanced with kaffir lime, chilies and cilantro. The Occidental's buttermilk biscuits are made by freezing and grating high-quality butter into the dough and served with extra butter sweetened with honey. Minetta Tavern, a New York transplant in Union Market, offers a deeply flavorful onion soup topped with crusty bread and burnished Gruyère.
"which began as a pandemic pop-up and has evolved into a sleek Penn Quarter dining room/mahjong parlor-aims to make tweaked but still recognizable versions of Chinese/American classics. But the heaping pile of lo mein here is far more luxe than anything you'll find in a takeout box. For starters, it's tossed with hunks of buttered Maryland blue crab. The best part of the dish, though, is the umami bomb of a sauce, the result of a happy accident when a cook spilled creamy, caramelized whey into dashi."
"The menu borrows heavily from the New York original, including this straightforward but stellar onion soup. It's everything you want in the bowl: a deeply flavorful beef broth packed with caramelized onions, just enough crusty bread, and a seriously generous cap of burnished Gruyère. "A lot of people tell me it's the best they've had outside of France," our server said. Count me among them."
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