The Paper Bridge Offers Attention-Grabbing Vietnamese Fare

"The first thing to know about the Paper Bridge (Bún Chả Cầu Giấy) is that the fresh, springy rice noodles are made in-house. The second thing to know is that there's a 14-page menu. Do not be overwhelmed. The latter half of the tome provides detailed descriptions of the history and components of the Northern Vietnamese dishes. You could easily spend 10 minutes reading - or you could talk to your server. Either way, make sure you order some of the following."

"You'll see nearly foot-long fritters landing on tables around you; that's the quẩy nóng - order it. Peel off warm hunks of the crispy fried dough and dip them into chile-studded nước chấm - or save some for your pho broth. Experience the delight of eating fresh rice noodles firsthand with the West Lake-style rolled pho noodles (phở cuốn tây hồ). Delicately wrapped around tender slices of beef and stuffed with herbs and lettuce, they deliver a fresh, herbaceous bite."

"Paper Bridge takes its beverage program seriously. You'll find a tropical-inflected cocktail list, but don't overlook the expansive list of infused rice wines and imported beers. There's also a formidable tea and coffee menu, with both traditional and modern options. Paper Bridge was recently thrust into the national spotlight thanks to a certain paper of record, making reservations harder to come by. Set a Resy notification, or go for lunch."

Paper Bridge makes fresh, springy rice noodles in-house and offers an extensive 14-page menu of Northern Vietnamese dishes. Start with morning glory, either pickled (rau muống ngâm chua ngọt) or sautéed with garlic (rau muống xào tỏi). Order quẩy nóng, peel warm pieces of fried dough and dip them into chile-studded nước chấm or add them to pho broth. Try West Lake-style rolled phở cuốn wrapped around beef with herbs and lettuce. For Hanoi classics, choose bún chả Hà Nội or a bowl of phở such as phở Nam Định or phở Việt Cao Bằng. Beverage options include tropical cocktails, infused rice wines, imported beers, and an expansive tea and coffee menu. Reservations can be hard; set a Resy alert or go at lunch.

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