Video: Restaurant Review: Maze
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Video: Restaurant Review: Maze
"In the first starred New York Times review from the Hawaiian islands, our chief restaurant critic Ligaya Mishan finds intriguing twists on a cuisine that's already fluid with Asian influences. I'm dreaming of being back in my hometown of Honolulu, where I went over the holidays and checked in on one of my favorite restaurants. The name of the restaurant is Maze from the Japanese Mazeru."
"The meal opens with a set of snacks that might include a deep-cupped Shigoku oyster dressed with a granita made from the pickling liquid of white kimchi, a potato croquette of bewildering lightness crowned with trout roe. One of my favorite snacks when I was growing up was a Spam musubi, but at Maze you get A5 Wagyu cut so thin it's like a silky kerchief draped over the rice that's been plumped up with Wagyu fat. It's just rich beyond rich."
Maze, whose name derives from the Japanese mazeru, offers a hybrid Hawaiian-Asian cuisine served in a blond-wood dining room. The menu blends native Hawaiian traditions with varied Asian influences and is a collaboration between chef Ki Chung and mixologist Justin Kawailani Park. Dishes include refined snacks such as a Shigoku oyster with white-kimchi granita, a feather-light potato croquette with trout roe, and an A5 Wagyu-topped take on Spam musubi. Larger plates feature braised beef cheeks with goji berries and a range of banchan, with miniature portions that encourage attentive, contrasted bites. The cooking favors opulent subversions and local ingredients.
Read at www.nytimes.com
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