The Cult of Jam Lives on at Sqirl in Virgil Village

"When Jessica Koslow's Sqirl burst onto the scene in the early 2010s, it quickly commanded a place in the national consciousness that stretched far beyond its roots as a fermentation-focused cafe. The cult of jam toast rapidly grew: There seemed like no cooler place to be than seated on the sidewalk at Sqirl - or even in line at Sqirl."

"Then, in early 2020, came JamGate: a series of allegations against Koslow that began with a photo of a molded-over bucket of jam (Koslow has said the original photo was of a discard bucket, not one served to customers), before extending to issues around Koslow allegedly taking sole credit for recipes, workers being locked in an unlicensed kitchen."

"In the years since the scandal, Koslow has worked to make amends: collaborators feature prominently on Sqirl's Instagram; the jam is produced under more stringent guidelines; and, on a recent podcast, Koslow spoke to how she, and the restaurant, have changed. In terms of its food, Sqirl is as good as it's ever been, if not better."

Sqirl, Jessica Koslow's fermentation-focused cafe, became a nationally recognized destination in the early 2010s for its jam toast and sidewalk dining experience. In early 2020, the restaurant faced significant controversy dubbed "JamGate," involving allegations of moldy jam, uncredited recipes, locked kitchen conditions, and contributions to neighborhood gentrification. Koslow issued apologies and acknowledged areas for improvement. While customer lines have returned, Sqirl remained absent from major "Best of" lists for years. Since the scandal, Koslow has implemented changes including prominent collaborator credits, stricter jam production standards, and public reflection on her growth. The restaurant's food quality has remained strong, with new dinner service offerings demonstrating continued culinary excellence.

Read at Eater LA