A traveler and her mother drive to a hidden hot spring at Agia Kyriaki, descending to a deserted cove where bubbling hot water blends with the sea at perfect temperature. They soak in a mineral pool beneath juniper trees, listening to waves and cicadas, and notice a stone bench dedicated to loving parents. Ikaria lies in the eastern Aegean, named after Icarus, and features forests, springs, wine, longevity and sparse tourism. The island has about 8,000 residents across scattered villages. They arrive via ferry to Agios Kirykos, stay near Faros beach at Lighthouse Lodge, and visit the ancient Drakano tower.
There are no signs to the hot spring, but I locate it on the map and we drive to the end of the paved road. Overlooking the sea is a stone bench someone has dedicated to her parents, with gratitude and love as deep as the Aegean. My dad died recently and the words strike home. I'm glad my mum has joined me on this little adventure.
Ikaria, in the eastern Aegean named after Icarus, the Greek mythological figure who flew too close to the sun is known for its forests, springs and wine, communist leanings and longevity. Its population of about 8,000 is spread across dozens of scattered villages over 255 sq km, with few dedicated to tourism, and it only really gets busy in July and August.
We arrive in mid-June from Kos (ferries also connect Samos and Athens to the port of Evdilos) at the port of Agios Kirykos and drive north-east to Faros, which has a mile of beach without a single hotel. The house we've rented for our first few days, Lighthouse Lodge, is perfectly located next to a cafe-bar and two tavernas the hot spring a few kilometres away.
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