Warming winter's chill at Merkado, with bright Mexican twists - 48 hills

"Child, it is chilly. Time to dip into some spots that remind you of balmier climes and spicier times. As I pulled out my puffy coat and fingerless gloves, Merkado in SoMa's South Beach enclave perfectly fit the bill for a sweet night out-full of warming spices and innovative twists on Mexican standards, deeply rooted in Jalisco and Yucatan tradition."

"Cauich, a former sous chef at TRES, bumps up classics with surprising touches: richly sauced turkey albondigas with a quail egg cooked inside, like a velvety surprise; a technicolor veggie ensalada spiked with passion fruit vinaigrette; a wowza pozole featuring lightly fried whole fish, chile guajillo broth, and blue corn hominy-I literally wanted to take a bath in this stunner, which was perfect for two."

"The cocktails were on point as well. The Do Epic $h!t came out with a waft of smoked rosemary, perched atop a garnet-colored pop of Bar Hill gin, hibiscus, pomegranate juice, agave, and lime. The Broken Spanish was a deeply flavorful blend of cinnamon-infused tequila, kahlua, and Excelsior coffee cold brew that kicked just right, without a caffeine rush. And the super-unique "Mermaids Are Real"-tequila reposado, coconut, pom syrup, chamoy, lime, agave-was a luscious, not-too-sweet treat."

Merkado occupies a revamped space in SoMa's South Beach, previously home to Tres Agaves/TRES, and features an elegant, plant-filled interior managed by General Manager Fabien Santos. Chef de Cuisine Lorenzo Cauich updates Mexican standards with inventive touches rooted in Jalisco and Yucatan traditions. Dishes include richly sauced turkey albondigas with a quail egg, a technicolor veggie ensalada with passion fruit vinaigrette, a pozole with lightly fried whole fish in chile guajillo broth and blue corn hominy, and a berry Carlota with Meyer lemon custard and Maria wafers. Cocktails are creative and balanced, ranging from smoked-rosemary gin and hibiscus blends to cinnamon-infused tequila and chamoy-enhanced tequila concoctions.

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