"Duck into Bar Etoile along Western Avenue and find a gently lit wood-paneled dining room that buzzes, starting from a zinc counter encircling the center of the room. To the sides, packed tables toast to zingy glasses of Melon de Bourgogne while taking careful spoonfuls of Alpine-style cheese tarts fashioned into savory pie slices. Which Parisian arrondissement is this? Oh, it's Melrose Hill, a Los Angeles neighborhood experiencing increasingly accelerating development with the openings of Corridor 109, Chainsaw, and Little Fish in recent months."
"Caesar beef tartare employs some of the most geometrically consistent little cubes of diced steak I've ever seen. It's incredibly satisfying to enjoy over a heavy smear of Caesar dressing and a toast slice chopped precisely into the shape of bite-sized croutons. In a world where steak tartare abounds, this one stands out. A cheese tart dusted with matcha powder and a quenelle of strawberry preserves begs for a bright white wine - like a Jean-Marie Chaland Burgundy from Macon - to wash it down."
Bar Etoile sits on Western Avenue in Melrose Hill, featuring a gently lit wood-paneled dining room centered around a zinc counter. The menu blends modern French bistro standards with Los Angeles inventiveness, highlighted by a Caesar beef tartare with precisely diced steak, Alpine-style cheese tarts dusted with matcha, ricotta dumplings in fontina brodo with roast broccolini, and a Finley Farms market herb salad dressed with miso vinaigrette. The wine list favors bright whites like Melon de Bourgogne and Burgundy from Macon for desserts. The room buzzes with diners and oenophiles; expect about $100 per person, wine variable.
Read at Eater LA
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