Dimo's in Kerns Excels at Multi-Hyphenate Italian Dining

"Depending on what door you use and when you get there, Dimo's can be a pizzeria, a deli, a supper club, or a sit-down Italian restaurant. Splitting focus like that usually leads to compromises on quality, but Dimo's inexplicably excels in every department. Dimo's Italian Specialties (the door on the right) operates in deli mode from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, and switches to a dinner menu starting at 5:30 p.m. Thursday through Sunday."

"You really can't go wrong with the classic Italian grinder ($17). An impressively pillowy hoagie roll packed with a beguiling stratum of mortadella, soppressata, ham, and provolone, along with a garden of shredded veg doused with garlic aioli and oregano vin. Spice hounds might seek out the specifically spicy version ($20), but the base model already features a sinus-clearing pepper giardiniera."

"For dinner, the rigatoni alla zozzona ($24) features a delicate tomato puree infused with guanciale, egg yolk, a hint of spice, and a conspicuous amount of pecorino cheese. Hot tip: If guanciale (cured pork cheek) is mentioned in a menu, order that item. The arancini are an unexpected skill piece: The deep-fried balls of seasoned rice are impeccably tender within, but delicately crisp on the exterior."

Dimo's functions as a pizzeria, deli, supper club, and sit-down Italian restaurant depending on entrance and time of day. The deli runs 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday and switches to a dinner menu starting at 5:30 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. Deli offerings include overstuffed grinders and flatbread sandwiches. The classic grinder layers mortadella, soppressata, ham, provolone, shredded vegetables, garlic aioli, and oregano vinaigrette, with a spicier option available. Dinner highlights include rigatoni alla zozzona featuring guanciale, egg yolk, and pecorino, plus impeccably tender, crisp arancini. A refrigerator wall stocks drinks, take-and-bake items, frozen stock, sauces, and specialty ingredients. Pasta bowls are small in circumference but deep enough to share.

Read at Eater Portland