Firstborn Straddles Old and New in a Rapidly Changing Chinatown
Briefly

Firstborn Straddles Old and New in a Rapidly Changing Chinatown
"The former Pok Pok space in Chinatown's Mandarin Plaza is now home to Firstborn, a modern Chinese American restaurant from chef Anthony Wang. Wang draws on his parents' history in Beijing, summer trips across China, and his childhood in Georgia and Miami to serve chile-flecked fried chicken and barbecue cabbage that takes cues from twice-cooked pork. Pair dinner with cocktails from bar director Kenzo Han, who puts their own twist on classic drinks like a Negroni with baiju and pu'erh tea."
"Chongqing fried chicken pays tribute to Southern fried chicken with a sturdy crust that chile oil clings to. While the chicken has some heat, it's not all that spicy, making it approachable for those who don't have much of a spice tolerance. The barbecue cabbage is cooked twice - once whole to cook it through, and a second time to achieve a deeply charred top. It's dressed with soy sauce and black vinegar before landing on the table in a shallow pool of leek vinaigrette. Ripe heirloom tomatoes make the most of Los Angeles's bounty of produce, dotted with fig leaves and nectarines. Semi-transparent blocks of jasmine jelly are nestled between the fruit, bursting with a light floral flavor."
Firstborn occupies the former Pok Pok space in Chinatown's Mandarin Plaza and presents modern Chinese American dishes rooted in chef Anthony Wang's family history and travels. Menus feature chile-flecked Chongqing-style fried chicken with a sturdy crust, twice-cooked barbecue cabbage dressed with soy and black vinegar, and heirloom tomato plates finished with jasmine jelly, fig leaves, and nectarines. Bar director Kenzo Han riffs on classics using baijiu and pu'erh tea. A smaller bar-only menu offers scaled-down versions of signature dishes and snacks. The restaurant signals a new generation updating Chinatown's culinary identity while honoring its past.
Read at Eater LA
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