Rafael Quintanar began working at age four in Fresnillo, Zacatecas, pushing a handcart while selling newspapers, oranges, pumpkin seeds, and ice cream. He still works five days a week at El Norteño taco truck near Bryant and Harriet streets across from the Hall of Justice. He rises at 1 a.m. to cook and opens by 7 a.m., serving construction workers and residents of the 145-unit Tahanan supportive housing complex. Lunch begins before 11:30 a.m., drawing Hall of Justice and nearby office workers, including regulars who order carnitas tacos and cite cooking quality and personal treatment.
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