Basmati rice, once a precious export from the region between India and Pakistan, faces an uncertain future as India seeks protected status for it as an Indian product, while Pakistan claims it as shared heritage. Amidst this dispute, farmers express concerns that the unique qualities of basmati are eroding due to modernization and loss of traditional farming practices. Demand for basmati is expected to double by 2032, yet many producers struggle to maintain the rice's genetic integrity and flavor amidst these changes.
"Nobody can say with certainty when exactly that began to change. But all agree that's not what most basmati rice here tastes like these days - even if it carries the label."
"There's this special moment when you lift the lid of your metal pot and the steam comes out; it intoxicates you," said Muhammad Nawaz, a Pakistani chef.
"Young farmers have lost the traditional knowledge of how to maintain genetic purity. The debate over who owns basmati is a complete waste of energy on both sides."
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