The conflict burst into the open on 9 September like a delayed-action bomb, six weeks after the arrest of two of Mexico's most powerful crime bosses in El Paso, Texas.
Ismael El Mayo Zambada Garcia, who founded the Sinaloa cartel with Joaquin El Chapo Guzman, was detained along with one of Guzman's sons after a small plane touched down in the US.
Locals enjoy aguachile, a Sinaloan-style ceviche, during a day-time party in the centre of Culiacan. But away from this show of spirit in the city centre, the very violence they were defying continued.
Three months of war between rival factions of the Sinaloa cartel have left more than a thousand dead or disappeared, and a city in a unique kind of humanitarian crisis.
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