The article explores the evolution of Texas barbecue, highlighting how traditional small-town establishments are giving way to 'craft barbecue' restaurants that focus on high-quality meats and chef-driven techniques. It recounts Calvin Trillin's journey through Texas barbecue culture and the impact of Texas Monthly's published lists on popularizing certain joints. While institutions like Snow's still thrive, the absence of traditional places from recent rankings indicates a shift towards urban, meticulously crafted barbecue, showcasing how culinary tastes transform and reflect broader societal changes.
"I've heard it argued that, absent some slippage in management, a barbecue restaurant can only get better over time: many Texas barbecue fanatics have a strong belief in the beneficial properties of accumulated grease."
"The once common idea that the best Texas barbecue comes from long-running small-town operations is increasingly obsolete."
"It's an evolution: from humble roots into a craft, as many consider barbecue an art form now, emphasizing quality meats and chef-like attention."
"Many of the places that are likely to make up this year's list, which will be announced in May, describe what they do as 'craft barbecue'..."
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