The article discusses the decline of steak fries in American cuisine, describing them as an unappealing cross between traditional fries and baked potatoes. David Burke, the owner of Park Ave Kitchen, notes their rarity in upscale restaurants, prompting a conversation with chef William Lustberg, who expresses a desire to resurrect steak fries on the menu. Despite their outdated reputation, the restaurant aims to reintegrate this thicker fry variant into a contemporary dining experience, highlighting the tension between nostalgia and current culinary trends.
Steak fries have lost the war for the American palate and seem almost anachronistic, making encounters with them feel akin to running into a Visigoth.
In an age where culinary trends favor thinner, crispier fries, steak fries' heft and texture provide a nostalgic counterpoint that some chefs, like William Lustberg, are eager to revive.
David Burke, reflecting on steak fries' inclusion in his restaurant, acknowledged their rarity but sees potential in reintroducing them to a modern audience.
Despite steak fries being viewed as outdated in contemporary cuisine, Park Ave Kitchen's chef expresses enthusiasm for reviving them and making them relevant again.
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