In Loreto, Mexico, the Wonder of Whale Sharks and Foraged Clams

"As the sun descends behind the Sierra de la Giganta mountains, I join the end-of-day procession to Loreto Bay National Park, a protected marine area in the Sea of Cortez. Fisherfolk, families, and out-of-towners stroll the Malecón, a mile-long esplanade that traces the water, watching as the sea turns the same sherbet hues as the evening sky. Seabirds dive-bomb for their dinner, and when a gray whale spouts remarkably close to shore, I hear myself gasp."

"The seaside village of Loreto, five hours north of the Baja California Sur capital of La Paz, is still the type of one-traffic-light Mexican town whose cobblestone streets are lined with family-owned restaurants and cafés. Papel picado, a vibrant folk art made from cutting elaborate designs into sheets of colorful tissue paper, and lucha libre masks decorate the main drag. The Baroque-style Mission of Our Lady of Loreto, founded in 1697 by the Jesuits, is a point of pride around which the community orbits."

"Loreto has had the government designation Pueblo Mágico, given to towns with cultural or historical significance, since 2012, and has managed to avoid the chain resorts, tour buses, and clubs touting tequila poppers so common in other coastal Mexican destinations. Instead, tourism has grown slowly-there are now six direct flights from the US and Canada-thanks in large part to conservationists' efforts to keep the town and the surrounding sea from being loved to death."

Loreto Bay National Park features a mile-long Malecón where locals and visitors gather at sunset to watch seabirds and gray whales near shore. The seaside town of Loreto retains cobblestone streets, family-owned restaurants, papel picado, and the 1697 Baroque Mission of Our Lady of Loreto. Designated Pueblo Mágico in 2012, Loreto has avoided large resorts and mass tourism, growing slowly with six direct flights from the US and Canada. The bay serves as a breeding ground for many marine species, including whale sharks, blue whales, dolphins, Mobula rays, and thresher sharks. Conservation efforts have limited overdevelopment to protect the marine environment.

Read at Conde Nast Traveler