Frailes Atelier takes its name from its position on one of Valladolid's main shopping streets, the pretty, cobblestoned Calzada de los Frailes. To call it a candle shop would be underselling it-it feels more like an art gallery, with candlesticks taking the form of long-stem roses and twisted architectural shapes, all crafted in the city from 100 percent beeswax. The space, set out around a central table like the dining room of a private home, is warm and informal.