The downturn that has been gnawing at Swiss watchmakers for the past two years hasn't fully lifted, and the industry is still finding its footing in a world where Chinese appetite remains muted and a booming secondary market is increasingly the first port of call for buyers discouraged by ever-rising retail prices.
"The name is a paradox. They never functioned as a collective," says Kaat Debo, MoMu's director. "Some of them still describe that label as a blessing and a curse. But they were friends."
"They're everyday professionals who simply don't have the time to shop the traditional way," said Kneen about J. Hilburn customers. Instead, stylists manage fit, fabrics and wardrobe planning, effectively outsourcing the entire process for busy professionals.
In the show, "dirty" extends to anything that breaks fashion's pact with propriety. Here are clothes caked in grime, blotted with makeup, stiffened by salt, pieced from trash, frayed, and faded. The garments span decades, from the 1980s through the mid-2000s, when the likes of Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier built their fame on defying convention, to today, when corporatization has made such daring increasingly rare. But forgoing practicality frees certain designers from the demands that the body be polite-and thereby policed.
On the first day of Berlin Fashion Week, Maqu unveiled its Fall/Winter 2026 collection, La Dama del Cacao, a masterful exploration of contemporary Peruvian minimalism. This capsule collection is a testament to material innovation, embodying a thoughtful design philosophy that marries textile memory and regenerative principles. Crafted from luxurious alpaca yarns, organic cotton, and pioneering biomaterials, each piece is a result of meticulous hand-knitting techniques and artisanal machinery.
It's not a multi-thousand pound handbag from Hermes that best captures the new era of It bags, but a 149 tote from John Lewis. Launched this season, it's deeper (45cm) and taller (33cm) than your average handbag, and comes loaded with good intentions. It's able to hold your packed lunch, flask and book, as well at a push as your gym kit.
Travelling for art can be incredibly virtuous and culturally rewarding, like collecting souvenirs for your eyes (and from the post card rail in the gift shop). Remembering to research what is on before I book flights is a lesson I learnt all too well after I missed the Metropolitan Museum's fashion exhibition in 2016 by one day. As a fashion obsessed 20 something, I did not take this well and have since improved my itinerary planning and exhibition calendar checking.
The end of the show did not mark the end of the trip. Back at the Le Grand Bellevue the group divided between fireside hot chocolates and the hotel's spa. The hotel's Le Grand Spa is over 3,000 square metres and has eight different types of saunas, several ice showers, foot baths and an outdoor bubble pool (named thus as it's bigger than your standard jacuzzi).
Fashion is very good at announcing returns, and it is less interested in accounting for what happens in the time in between. Designers disappear, reappear and are soon asked to explain themselves, preferably in the language of growth. London-based designer Nicomede Talavera has done this twice already. His new collection under his eponymous label Nicomede, Sacred Journey, is somewhat of a third arrival, serving as a reminder that stepping away can sharpen a vision, not dilute it.
Studying abroad in Florence was one of the best decisions of my life for a multitude of reasons-I lived like a true local, ate some of the best meals I've ever had, deepened my appreciation for art and history, learned Italian, and was able to travel to five countries and two continents in just three and a half months. But most importantly, it immersed me in a culture where personal style is second nature, quickly teaching me how to dress in a sophisticated, timeless,