fromConde Nast Traveler
13 hours agoMy Journey to See All 19 Penguin Species in the Wild, From Antarctica to Tristan da Cunha to New Zealand's Subantarctic Islands
It was an uncannily calm day on Macquarie Island, a sliver of oceanic crust located about halfway between New Zealand and Antarctica. Typically, it's pummeled by icy winds and drenching rains. But today, I'm sitting on the black-sand beach under partly cloudy skies, legs outstretched as gentle waves roll ashore. A group of curious royal penguins waddles by, pausing to inspect my muck boots and give me a quick once-over. Sensing another presence, I whip my head around toward the tussocks behind me-lo and behold, two royals have snuck up on me. I pull out my phone to take a selfie.
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