"Peas are the herald," says Zach Jarrett of Psychic Wines in Silver Lake. Like a lot of us he takes his cues from the produce stands at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, which he attends twice weekly. That's how he knows that peas appear, perplexingly, toward the end of January. "They sort of announce pre-spring, or micro-spring, or spring week," he says. "Then they vanish, and reappear in April."