I'm amazed I'm still alive. I just sort of went down real hard. I just couldn't control it to kind of stick that landing.
They put me through a CT scan and checked all that out, and then I was with the trauma team and they checked me all out. I just have had a massive headache, a minor concussion, so I am pretty lucky.
I kind of remember the wave, like coming into the wave and then hitting the big step, which just felt so big, like one of those monumental kind of moments.
In 2010 I broke my back while surfing another dangerous Tasmanian wave at Governor Island.
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