"Rather than Champagne and fried chicken with caviar, visitors will find housemade pasta, imported salumi, and Italian wines. Chef Brady Stephens, previously of Jacqueline, OK Omens, and Scotch Lodge, helms the kitchen at the new concept. Stephens keeps it light and focused: Imported cured meats like finocchiona and aged prosciutto, Italian cheeses, and snacky small plates like tuna carpaccio and fried goat cheese make up the bulk of the menu."
"Behind the bar, Lisa Talbert, also from Scotch Lodge, crafts aperitifs and spritzes like the sherry- and vermouth-based Bamboo and Adonis. Lacking a license for spirits, the bar features fortified wines in its mixed drinks. Glass pours lean heavily Italian- though a few French and West Coast wines make appearances-and diners can expect the list to change frequently."
"Fans of Fancy Baby shouldn't be too disappointed: While you may no longer be able to order grower Champagne by the ounce, there are still plenty of bottles of bubbly to be found, as well as cool, Old World still wines."
Fancy Baby, which opened in Portland's Pearl District in late 2024 as a Champagne-focused wine bar, closed for a month in early 2026 to undergo a complete reorientation. Owner William Oben reopened the space as Il Corso, named after his great-grandfather's nickname from his emigration from Corsica to Puerto Rico. The new concept features Chef Brady Stephens from Jacqueline and Scotch Lodge, serving housemade pasta, imported cured meats, Italian cheeses, and small plates. Bartender Lisa Talbert creates aperitifs and spritzes using fortified wines rather than spirits due to licensing restrictions. The wine list emphasizes Italian selections with occasional French and West Coast options, changing frequently. Champagne remains available alongside Old World still wines.
Read at Portland Monthly
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