The first time I ate a was in 2003, and after one bite of that soupy, oversize dumpling, I became obsessed with the food of the former Soviet republic of Georgia. I started making pilgrimages to Georgian restaurants wherever I could find them, snarfing down cheese-stuffed breads and garlic chicken, pickled walnuts and those delicious khinkali. I often imagined what the food would taste like in its motherland, but for 20 years I was too busy and broke to trek to the small, mountainous nation.