Parting with a lot of expensive wine is the cost of hosting Harry. Although his liver would probably appreciate it, placing any limits on what he's allowed to consume would be rude and decidedly non-festive. So here's what you're going to do: Open one bottle of the good stuff, or as much as you need to pour everyone a glass. When that's gone, switch to bottles you don't care about-perhaps
But the thing is, wine doesn't need to be that complicated. When it comes to my work at Bon Appétit, I'm most interested in helping people loosen up around shopping for wine and just go with their instincts. Wine is not, in my experience, this big, scary thing. At its best, it's an exclamation point in an already wonderful meal. For me and the Bon Appétit team, it's an excuse to spend even more time around the dining table.